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Marques de Legarda Abalos Rioja Spain, 1920, 750

Marques de Legarda Abalos Rioja Spain, 1920, 750

$ 389.00

Marques de Legarda Abalos Rioja Spain, 1920, 750

Circa 140 bottles of this wine were unearthed in the winery in 2011. This is the oldest winery in all of Rioja and they make classic old school Rioja style wines. The winery has a history of wine making going back to the 14th century.
Impeccable provenance for bottles of 1920 wine coming directly from the winery. The winery tested the wines and re-bottled them with fresh corks. The importer had a chance to try a bottle before bringing it over and I just tried one. We concur, it is and old wine but overall amazing given its age.  A very rare opportunity. As a long time wine professional. I have never been offered something like this. It is likely it will never happen again but, one can dream.

From my tasting 02/24/17
Bricky color with with a touch of orange at the edges
Cigar box, saddle leather, earth, sage, violet, lavender, mint, eucalyptus, Earl Grey tea, cherry, strawberry, toasted orange zest, sassafras root, sandalwood, linen, clove, spice cake and and a touch of briny minerality.
Very soft and elegant on the palate with a long linear delivery on the finish, acidity is still quite lively 20-30 second finish.

If you decide to properly cellar the wine it will likely be fine for another 20 years, but I don't know why you would wait that long. Buy it, invite special friends, have with filet or rack of lamb.

Translated from the winery, original Spanish below:

Wine: Marqués de Legarda 1920
Winery: Bodegas de la Real Divisa (Ábalos, La Rioja)
Denomination of Origin / Area: D.O.Ca. Rioja
Varieties: tempranillo, mazuelo, graciano, garnacha

Elaboration: Manual harvesting in own vineyards and small producers near the municipality of Ábalos, in the Rioja Alta. It remains between 24 and 36 months in tinos of old wood of great capacity in which it realizes the fermentations and it rests before being transferred for its later aging. Subjected to two racking between tinos to make the first filtered by gravity. The wine is grown in 225-liter oak barrels in which it remains approximately 5 years. Two annual racks per year, from barrel to barrel. Turned back to used foudres of American oak of various capacities (225-400-600 liters) in which it remains for a minimum of 270 months, something more than 22 years. Bottled according to demand directly from the barrel, unfiltered.

Tasting note: Copper-colored ruby ​​with a medium-low layer, very clear, translucent, bright, limpid but with a very precipitate in the base of the bottle. Remember a claret with 50 years less ... Reflections reddish and amber, refulgent. Ribete broad, fleshed, little tinted compared to the meniscus.

Fine, very fine, of a profound reductive character but not at all old and without the slightest hint of ailments by age. Aromas of good intensity. It dominates a perfume amizclado, animal, with a ground point and sweet that remembers the amber. The rest is of noble character, to the best leather, to mats and smokers' room, cigar cellar, old furniture, cabinetmaking, tung oil ... Delicate, elegant not to be able. When you breathe out a concentrated bottom of clot and fruit passes that tells us about his long stay in bottle. Still it does not look like a wine at this age.

In the mouth it maintains a very light entry, silky, caressing, giving an accent of luxurious woods and vanilla. Joyous, spherical, of an absolute balance. It maintains a tinkling of acidity that has been incorporated into the whole and amplifies it in an elegant way. Nothing heavy, fresh, straighter than broad, very serious. Another example of the great wines that were made in Rioja 100 years ago, from a theoretically smaller cellar, and that are capable of defying the passage of time. How many current wines will surpass the 2100 barrier in this way?

 

Vino: Marqués de Legarda 1920
Bodega: Bodegas de la Real Divisa (Ábalos, La Rioja)
Denominación de Origen / Zona: D.O.Ca. Rioja
Variedades: tempranillo, mazuelo, graciano, garnacha

Elaboración: Vendimia manual en viñedos propios y de pequeños productores cercanos al municipio de Ábalos, en la Rioja Alta. Permanece entre 24 y 36 meses en tinos de madera vieja de gran capacidad en los que realiza las fermentaciones y reposa antes de ser transvasado para su posterior crianza. Sometido a dos trasiegos entre tinos para realizar los primeros filtrados por gravedad. El vino pasa a criarse en barricas de roble de 225 litros en las que permanece aproximadamente unos 5 años. Dos trasiegas anuales por año, de barrica a barrica. Vuelto a trasegar a foudres usados de roble americano de diversas capacidades (225-400-600 litros) en los que permanece durante un mínimo de 270 meses, algo más de 22 años.

Nota de cata: De color rubí cobrizo de capa media-baja, muy claro, translúcido, brillante, límpido aunque presenta un finísimo precipitado en la base de la botella. Recuerda a un clarete con 50 años menos... Reflejos rojizos y ambarinos, refulgente. Ribete amplio, atejado, poco matizado respecto al menisco.

Fino, finísimo, de un profundo carácter reductivo aunque para nada envejecido y sin el mínimo asomo de achaques por la edad. Aromas de buena intensidad. Domina un perfume amizclado, animal, con un punto térreo y dulzón que recuerda al ámbar. Lo demás es de carácter noble, al mejor cuero, a tapetes y salón de fumadores, cava de puros, muebles viejos, ebanistería, aceite de tung... Delicado, elegante a más no poder. Al respirar saca un fondo concentrado de arrope y fruta pasa que nos habla de su larga estancia en botellla. Aún así no parece un vino con esta edad.

En boca mantiene una entrada ligerísima, sedosa, acariciante, aportando un acento de maderas lujosas y vainilla. Gozoso, esférico, de un equilibrio absoluto. Mantiene un tintineo de acidez que se ha incorporado al conjunto y lo amplifica de forma elegante. Nada pesado, fresco, más recto que amplio, muy serio. Otro ejemplo de los grandes vinos que se elaboraban en Rioja hace ya 100 años, de una bodega teóricamente menor, y que son capaces de desafiar el paso del tiempo. ¿Cuántos vinos actuales superarán la barrera del 2100 de esta manera?